It's time to leave the mountain which, at this point in time, we call a variety of names (none of them nice) - "she that shall not be named" is one of them. Prior to breakfast we gather things we would like to donate to the staff. As you can imagine (or have seen if you have been looking at my pictures/videos) many of the porters and guides do not have the best climbing gear. They often rely on donations from clients to replace worn out clothes (though there is a group http://www.kiliporters.org/ that lends clothes to porters for free for the duration of the climb). Many of the staff had shoes that were cracked or patched up with stitches and most didn't have the high-tech gear we are accustomed to wearing. I found Gideon and offered him my wool hat as (if you can see in the pictures) his hat seems to be held on with a sweatband. Then I found the porter who carried my bag and gave him one of my running shirts that I hoped would fit (luckily he was little, but the biggest shirt I had was a medium). I put the other running shirts I'd brought in the bag. Sally had brought an extra pair of hiking boots and Heidi more or less gave them everything except the shirt off her back - so as a group, I think we filled up the rice bag - hopefully our porters and guides will benefit from what we left behind.
We had been told the night before that we needed to get a prompt start, so for probably the first time, all 10 of us were sitting at the breakfast table before anything was brought out to eat. As soon as we were done, the tipping ceremony began. The lead guide, Sam, checked to make sure we were all set. He said he was going to collect the money, but we told him we had it ready for each person. He seemed surprised that we had exact change (which makes me wonder if sometimes porters don't actually get all that should be given, since it seems Sam is used to groups giving him the money directly). We were on top of it, though, having done the Inca Trail before - Heidi and I came armed with lots of 1's and 5's to make change and between all of us, we had the exact amount for all. Sam also told use we needed to give Gideon a little additional money because he was not only a helping porter, but was a summit porter as well - I said I'd give the extra since he helped me, but Sally insisted that we all put in money, as it just so happened he helped me, but it could have been anyone. So we all added $1 and Gideon got $53 (instead of the $43 the other helping porters received).
Sally spoke words of gratitude on behalf of the group and Alpha (a guide) translated her words into Swahili. When it got time to tell them the tip (we were told to state out loud the tip for the porters.... I'm guessing because sometimes they don't get it unless it's stated) and Sally said the ordinary porters got $31, Alpha looked at her before translating and said "these are ordinary porters" and she said "yes, $31 for the ordinary porters" and he looked confused. We all nodding our heads. (you see, the recommended amount was $20-25 for ordinary and $23-35 for helping - they must have thought we were confused). So, he announced that the ordinary porters were getting $31 and I tell you, some of them may as well have done cartwheels. We'd divided the money among our group, so everyone had the honor of giving a tip to someone. They were so grateful (can you imagine carrying 50lbs for 6 days up a mountain, setting up tents, packing them up again and moving on... and being overly excited that you got a tip for $31? it's no wonder they think of us as rich. We truly are blessed to live the lives we do).
Next came the helping porters, who were equally excited about the $43 they received and when we announced that Gideon was getting $53 (and a huge thank you for saving my life -more or less- on the mountain by bringing me down safely) he shook each of our hands with both his hands and was almost on his knees thanking each and every one of us. It felt good to know that our tip was enough to make them feel appreciated... and at the same time a little sad to know how hard they worked for us and how little they receive. Next were the assistant guides, cook and head guide (and we were told NOT to announce those amounts). Once everyone received their money, they sang for us... the second song was the Jambo song I'd learned before. If you'd like to view the video, click here.
After the song, we took a group picture, gathered our things and headed back down. With the exception of Heidi (who now had the energy of a spring chicken since she was finally able to eat and keep everything down), everyone was feeling a bit under the weather. We were all excited about the shower waiting for us at the hotel. The only problem was it was a 19k (almost 12 miles) walk down to the gate and it would take us about 6 hours.
On any other day, we would have all been in constant awe of the surroundings - the scenery was lush, thick, and full of surprises - after some low-lying trees and bushes we came into the rainforest... and unless you grew up in an area with a rainforest, I dare you not to be impressed - the moss hanging down, the huge trees, ferns bigger than me and of course monkeys (aw, yeah... we had to stop for the monkeys.... twice). But, alas, our goal was a shower at the hotel and the path seemed to go on forever. A cruel trick the "mountain that shall not be named" played on us after sucking us in for 4 days, luring us with her beauty... she then chewed us up and spit us out with a vengeance.
But make it we did... because we are strong... even though we might not have felt it (well, again, except for Heidi who suggested we go for a trail run), we are determined and strong (in body and mind) and because of that, we do amazing things (these are the things we kept telling ourselves, hoping we'd eventually believe it and make it thru!)
Back at the hotel, after one of the best showers ever (nothing special about the actually shower, just the "first shower in 6 days" feeling) I had to get to the internet (which was slow as molasses going uphill in January) to make sure everyone knew I was safe. (After arriving home, I learned its a good thing I did because y'all were really worried about me!) Then we headed to the bar to toast our survival and share a drink with a few of the guides who took us up on the invitation to have a beer.
What I thought would be one beer then dinner at 7:30 and bed by 9 turned into many beers (not for me, I didn't feel well so I stuck with one) for the guides and our group, ordering a pizza at 10 (you'd think it was impossible to mess up a pizza... but I tell you, this hotel made the worst tasting pizza I think I've ever had) and not getting to bed until after 11. All of this after the guides asked us to pay for their ride home because we invited them for drinks and now it was going to cost a lot of money to get home. Well, they told us it'd be $25 for a taxi... I excused myself to use the bathroom and went to the front desk to ask the cost of a taxi. $10. And that's for me... the muzungu... the white person. It left a bad taste in our mouths... especially since we felt we'd been so nice to offer to buy a drink and had been generous with the tips. We tried to keep in mind that they look at us as crazy rich and if they can get a little more out of us, why not. Still, like I said, it left a bad taste. In hindsight I wish we hadn't asked them for a beer and we'd all have left happy as clams.
I slept that night like I'd never slept before - straight through until my alarm woke me up.... it was soooooo nice to be in a bed instead of a sleeping bag. I was looking forward to sitting on my butt and being driven around for the next couple days as we headed towards the Serengeti for our safari.
Click for Pictures
We had been told the night before that we needed to get a prompt start, so for probably the first time, all 10 of us were sitting at the breakfast table before anything was brought out to eat. As soon as we were done, the tipping ceremony began. The lead guide, Sam, checked to make sure we were all set. He said he was going to collect the money, but we told him we had it ready for each person. He seemed surprised that we had exact change (which makes me wonder if sometimes porters don't actually get all that should be given, since it seems Sam is used to groups giving him the money directly). We were on top of it, though, having done the Inca Trail before - Heidi and I came armed with lots of 1's and 5's to make change and between all of us, we had the exact amount for all. Sam also told use we needed to give Gideon a little additional money because he was not only a helping porter, but was a summit porter as well - I said I'd give the extra since he helped me, but Sally insisted that we all put in money, as it just so happened he helped me, but it could have been anyone. So we all added $1 and Gideon got $53 (instead of the $43 the other helping porters received).
Sally spoke words of gratitude on behalf of the group and Alpha (a guide) translated her words into Swahili. When it got time to tell them the tip (we were told to state out loud the tip for the porters.... I'm guessing because sometimes they don't get it unless it's stated) and Sally said the ordinary porters got $31, Alpha looked at her before translating and said "these are ordinary porters" and she said "yes, $31 for the ordinary porters" and he looked confused. We all nodding our heads. (you see, the recommended amount was $20-25 for ordinary and $23-35 for helping - they must have thought we were confused). So, he announced that the ordinary porters were getting $31 and I tell you, some of them may as well have done cartwheels. We'd divided the money among our group, so everyone had the honor of giving a tip to someone. They were so grateful (can you imagine carrying 50lbs for 6 days up a mountain, setting up tents, packing them up again and moving on... and being overly excited that you got a tip for $31? it's no wonder they think of us as rich. We truly are blessed to live the lives we do).
Next came the helping porters, who were equally excited about the $43 they received and when we announced that Gideon was getting $53 (and a huge thank you for saving my life -more or less- on the mountain by bringing me down safely) he shook each of our hands with both his hands and was almost on his knees thanking each and every one of us. It felt good to know that our tip was enough to make them feel appreciated... and at the same time a little sad to know how hard they worked for us and how little they receive. Next were the assistant guides, cook and head guide (and we were told NOT to announce those amounts). Once everyone received their money, they sang for us... the second song was the Jambo song I'd learned before. If you'd like to view the video, click here.
After the song, we took a group picture, gathered our things and headed back down. With the exception of Heidi (who now had the energy of a spring chicken since she was finally able to eat and keep everything down), everyone was feeling a bit under the weather. We were all excited about the shower waiting for us at the hotel. The only problem was it was a 19k (almost 12 miles) walk down to the gate and it would take us about 6 hours.
On any other day, we would have all been in constant awe of the surroundings - the scenery was lush, thick, and full of surprises - after some low-lying trees and bushes we came into the rainforest... and unless you grew up in an area with a rainforest, I dare you not to be impressed - the moss hanging down, the huge trees, ferns bigger than me and of course monkeys (aw, yeah... we had to stop for the monkeys.... twice). But, alas, our goal was a shower at the hotel and the path seemed to go on forever. A cruel trick the "mountain that shall not be named" played on us after sucking us in for 4 days, luring us with her beauty... she then chewed us up and spit us out with a vengeance.
But make it we did... because we are strong... even though we might not have felt it (well, again, except for Heidi who suggested we go for a trail run), we are determined and strong (in body and mind) and because of that, we do amazing things (these are the things we kept telling ourselves, hoping we'd eventually believe it and make it thru!)
Back at the hotel, after one of the best showers ever (nothing special about the actually shower, just the "first shower in 6 days" feeling) I had to get to the internet (which was slow as molasses going uphill in January) to make sure everyone knew I was safe. (After arriving home, I learned its a good thing I did because y'all were really worried about me!) Then we headed to the bar to toast our survival and share a drink with a few of the guides who took us up on the invitation to have a beer.
What I thought would be one beer then dinner at 7:30 and bed by 9 turned into many beers (not for me, I didn't feel well so I stuck with one) for the guides and our group, ordering a pizza at 10 (you'd think it was impossible to mess up a pizza... but I tell you, this hotel made the worst tasting pizza I think I've ever had) and not getting to bed until after 11. All of this after the guides asked us to pay for their ride home because we invited them for drinks and now it was going to cost a lot of money to get home. Well, they told us it'd be $25 for a taxi... I excused myself to use the bathroom and went to the front desk to ask the cost of a taxi. $10. And that's for me... the muzungu... the white person. It left a bad taste in our mouths... especially since we felt we'd been so nice to offer to buy a drink and had been generous with the tips. We tried to keep in mind that they look at us as crazy rich and if they can get a little more out of us, why not. Still, like I said, it left a bad taste. In hindsight I wish we hadn't asked them for a beer and we'd all have left happy as clams.
I slept that night like I'd never slept before - straight through until my alarm woke me up.... it was soooooo nice to be in a bed instead of a sleeping bag. I was looking forward to sitting on my butt and being driven around for the next couple days as we headed towards the Serengeti for our safari.
Click for Pictures
No comments:
Post a Comment