After a long, tiring week on a mountain, we were all excited to start something new, kick up our feet and relax a bit. Sally brought all of us matching shirts for our safari (black shirts with a big ol'l leopard print heart) so we dressed alike and prepared for the journey to Arusha to meet our driver guide before going on to the market for some shopping and then Gibbs Farm for some relaxation.
In Arusha we said goodbye to the other folks in our group. Shaniz had left immediately after Kili, but the rest of us traveled together to Arusha where the safari guides met up with all of us except Doug, who got on a transfer to Nairobi. He was going to do a safari in Kenya.
We were introduced to Kessy, our driver with over 20 years of experience. We'd read that Arusha had the best market (outside of Zanzibar, but with much better prices) so we asked if Kessy would bring us to get our African crafts. The first place we went was a coop. While this was my first time in Tanzania, it was my third time on safari and I knew the price I'd like to pay for most goods. After shopping around the first market for close to an hour, we brought all our stuff to the bartering table. I hate bartering, but I know it's expected so we begin. The prices are crazy high, but one should expect that for the opening price. After much negotiation, my total offer was $82 and his total cost was $160. He said I need to come higher, so I went to $85... he said no and didn't lower his price. I said that's OK we don't need anything and ended up walking out. I felt bad that I'd wasted the other women's time. Sally was a worried about Kessy waiting, but I assured her he was fine and would get a cut of anything we spent. Of course, we didn't spend anything, but I'm sure it comes along with "if the client's happy, I'm happy". We told Kessy it was crazy expensive.... which he told the guy who followed us out... who replied "they'll be back, they won't find a better price".
Next we went to the supermarket, at Kessy's suggestion, to buy some beer. Apparently there was a fridge in the car and who wouldn't enjoy a nice cold beverage while looking at the animals or sitting on our porch at night. When we put the beer in the fridge, however, we realized it wasn't very cold. Later we learned it was broken - oh well... sometimes the best laid plans...
Next up, market #2. Now THIS was what I was hoping for - lots of different stands, with different vendors so you could shop around and find the best price - you weren't left with just one person for bartering. One of the vendors told us they don't get as many people because the drivers don't get a cut of the profits (as I suspected..) The starting price here was 1/2 the starting price at the coop... I knew we were where we should be. All of us (except Sam who showed great restraint) found great gifts to take back with us (either gifts for ourselves or others). Sally happened upon one stall where the lady was VERY fair - I didn't even feel the need to barter, her prices were that good. I probably gave her about $50 - plus whatever Sally spent, she had a good day. (Did I mention that we were wearing matching shirts? Anywhere I'd go in the market if I wasn't with the others the vendors would say "your friends are over here" - ha!) After probably about an hour, we went back to the car - happy with our purchases and headed on toward Gibbs Farm.
It was interesting to drive through town, then the countryside and just look out the window, taking it all in. We could see Mt. Maru (another tall mountain that some Aussie's had climbed to acclimate for Kili - we know this because they spent time in the bar prior to our Kili climb telling us how prepared they were and how unprepared we would be -imagine how happy we were when we heard one of their group didn't summit- not that the poor person didn't summit, but that it should show them that no matter what prep you do, there is no guarantee anyone will make it). We passed lots of kids who would wave at us (and some who flipped us off). In the distance we saw the sand swirling around in mini-tornadoes called dust devils.
When we arrive to Gibbs Farm we are greeted by staff members with passion fruit juice, ready to take us on our tour then to our rooms. We are blown away by how beautiful it is, so many flowers and pathways, and are a little sad we didn't arrive earlier (it was almost 7). After passing through the garden, we see an open area with lawn chairs facing out and over the valley - it's time for sunset. The people sitting in the lawn chairs in their linen pants and flowy shirts... as if they were extras in the movie Out of Africa. We, on the other hand, are still in our matching t-shirts - sally's carrying the 6-pack of beer we bought and we all have backpacks... a sight to see I'm sure. When they look down their noses at us (probably shocked the hotel would allow such red-neck riff raff), Sally exclaims that we just came from climbing Kili. One woman replied "you are going to really enjoy your shower!". We realize they thought we just came down the mountain. Did we look that bad? We'd all showered and I even put on a little makeup to mark the occasion! It was no surprise then, that after the tour of the gift shop, dining area, bar and the area where the bush babies will be fed at 7... they brought us to our rooms. Of course, in order to get to our rooms, we have to go through the coffee plantation and more or less leave the farm (guess they didn't want us to be disturbing the honeymooners - we decided all but us were on a romantic getaway). As we came up to a little house, we thought, oh, it'll be nice to all stay in one place! But no.... we each had a little house (check out the video). I'm not sure if there are no mid-level hotels in the region or if Lenny (the booking agent) misunderstood when Sally said we didn't need much other than private bathrooms, but we were clearly out of our league. I hadn't googled it... but check out www.gibbsfarm.net to see what I'm talking about.
We decide to open our room temperature beer and hang out on Sally and Sam's porch... listening to the sounds of nature. That is until Sally freaks out by the insects of nature and peace can no longer be had. The sun has gone down and the ladies decide a shower before dinner is a must - and that we need to pull out the dressiest outfits we have (which, for me, means my black sweatpant material skirt). On the way back to our "house" I see a man with a light on the path. As Heidi goes to shower, I go find out what he's doing - looking for Buffalo. I don't see what he sees, but I hear what he hears. I have no idea how close or far the animal is, but I do know (from my horse safari in South Africa with Brian) that buffalo are mean and very dangerous. I'm glad this man is keeping his eye out. He said there are often elephant too... and I sat there wishing and hoping I'd see one. No luck.
We get a call asking if we are ready for dinner and if we need an escort - Heidi tells them we are almost ready and an escort isn't necessary. However when we head out, the man is still looking for animals and he walks us to dinner. It was one of the best dinners ever - we didn't want to have to eat anywhere else and were sad that this was the only meal we had at the farm. When we got back to the room, the housekeeper had turned down the beds and taken the mosquito net down to surround them. We slept like queens. I woke up early to go the bathroom and decided to head outside with my light in hopes of seeing a buffalo or elephant. A worker came by - I said Jambo and then asked if he'd seen any animals... after I finally stopped talking he said "no english" which is no problem for me, I'm an expert at charades. So, I pointed to the woods then put my arm up to my face and made my best elephant noise, raising my "trunk" as I did... he started laughing... "elephant!" I guess he knows the names of animals. We stood there for a bit - I'd try to mimic any animal noise I heard and name that animal... he'd correct me. "oohhoohhoohh - monkey?" "hahahaha - bush baby" and so on.
I sprayed down my pants with the toxic "don't get this on your skin" mosquito repellant Heidi brought and then enjoyed the cup of coffee someone brought to our room. Ah, the life of luxury. We didn't have much time to enjoy it, however, as we were off to the Ngororngoro Crater and were already running late. After a delicious breakfast and a quick trip to one of the nicest bathrooms I've ever seen, we were off (but not before taking a few pictures of the flowers along the way).
Click here for Pictures
A tour of our "rooms" at Gibbs Farm
In Arusha we said goodbye to the other folks in our group. Shaniz had left immediately after Kili, but the rest of us traveled together to Arusha where the safari guides met up with all of us except Doug, who got on a transfer to Nairobi. He was going to do a safari in Kenya.
We were introduced to Kessy, our driver with over 20 years of experience. We'd read that Arusha had the best market (outside of Zanzibar, but with much better prices) so we asked if Kessy would bring us to get our African crafts. The first place we went was a coop. While this was my first time in Tanzania, it was my third time on safari and I knew the price I'd like to pay for most goods. After shopping around the first market for close to an hour, we brought all our stuff to the bartering table. I hate bartering, but I know it's expected so we begin. The prices are crazy high, but one should expect that for the opening price. After much negotiation, my total offer was $82 and his total cost was $160. He said I need to come higher, so I went to $85... he said no and didn't lower his price. I said that's OK we don't need anything and ended up walking out. I felt bad that I'd wasted the other women's time. Sally was a worried about Kessy waiting, but I assured her he was fine and would get a cut of anything we spent. Of course, we didn't spend anything, but I'm sure it comes along with "if the client's happy, I'm happy". We told Kessy it was crazy expensive.... which he told the guy who followed us out... who replied "they'll be back, they won't find a better price".
Next we went to the supermarket, at Kessy's suggestion, to buy some beer. Apparently there was a fridge in the car and who wouldn't enjoy a nice cold beverage while looking at the animals or sitting on our porch at night. When we put the beer in the fridge, however, we realized it wasn't very cold. Later we learned it was broken - oh well... sometimes the best laid plans...
Next up, market #2. Now THIS was what I was hoping for - lots of different stands, with different vendors so you could shop around and find the best price - you weren't left with just one person for bartering. One of the vendors told us they don't get as many people because the drivers don't get a cut of the profits (as I suspected..) The starting price here was 1/2 the starting price at the coop... I knew we were where we should be. All of us (except Sam who showed great restraint) found great gifts to take back with us (either gifts for ourselves or others). Sally happened upon one stall where the lady was VERY fair - I didn't even feel the need to barter, her prices were that good. I probably gave her about $50 - plus whatever Sally spent, she had a good day. (Did I mention that we were wearing matching shirts? Anywhere I'd go in the market if I wasn't with the others the vendors would say "your friends are over here" - ha!) After probably about an hour, we went back to the car - happy with our purchases and headed on toward Gibbs Farm.
It was interesting to drive through town, then the countryside and just look out the window, taking it all in. We could see Mt. Maru (another tall mountain that some Aussie's had climbed to acclimate for Kili - we know this because they spent time in the bar prior to our Kili climb telling us how prepared they were and how unprepared we would be -imagine how happy we were when we heard one of their group didn't summit- not that the poor person didn't summit, but that it should show them that no matter what prep you do, there is no guarantee anyone will make it). We passed lots of kids who would wave at us (and some who flipped us off). In the distance we saw the sand swirling around in mini-tornadoes called dust devils.
When we arrive to Gibbs Farm we are greeted by staff members with passion fruit juice, ready to take us on our tour then to our rooms. We are blown away by how beautiful it is, so many flowers and pathways, and are a little sad we didn't arrive earlier (it was almost 7). After passing through the garden, we see an open area with lawn chairs facing out and over the valley - it's time for sunset. The people sitting in the lawn chairs in their linen pants and flowy shirts... as if they were extras in the movie Out of Africa. We, on the other hand, are still in our matching t-shirts - sally's carrying the 6-pack of beer we bought and we all have backpacks... a sight to see I'm sure. When they look down their noses at us (probably shocked the hotel would allow such red-neck riff raff), Sally exclaims that we just came from climbing Kili. One woman replied "you are going to really enjoy your shower!". We realize they thought we just came down the mountain. Did we look that bad? We'd all showered and I even put on a little makeup to mark the occasion! It was no surprise then, that after the tour of the gift shop, dining area, bar and the area where the bush babies will be fed at 7... they brought us to our rooms. Of course, in order to get to our rooms, we have to go through the coffee plantation and more or less leave the farm (guess they didn't want us to be disturbing the honeymooners - we decided all but us were on a romantic getaway). As we came up to a little house, we thought, oh, it'll be nice to all stay in one place! But no.... we each had a little house (check out the video). I'm not sure if there are no mid-level hotels in the region or if Lenny (the booking agent) misunderstood when Sally said we didn't need much other than private bathrooms, but we were clearly out of our league. I hadn't googled it... but check out www.gibbsfarm.net to see what I'm talking about.
We decide to open our room temperature beer and hang out on Sally and Sam's porch... listening to the sounds of nature. That is until Sally freaks out by the insects of nature and peace can no longer be had. The sun has gone down and the ladies decide a shower before dinner is a must - and that we need to pull out the dressiest outfits we have (which, for me, means my black sweatpant material skirt). On the way back to our "house" I see a man with a light on the path. As Heidi goes to shower, I go find out what he's doing - looking for Buffalo. I don't see what he sees, but I hear what he hears. I have no idea how close or far the animal is, but I do know (from my horse safari in South Africa with Brian) that buffalo are mean and very dangerous. I'm glad this man is keeping his eye out. He said there are often elephant too... and I sat there wishing and hoping I'd see one. No luck.
We get a call asking if we are ready for dinner and if we need an escort - Heidi tells them we are almost ready and an escort isn't necessary. However when we head out, the man is still looking for animals and he walks us to dinner. It was one of the best dinners ever - we didn't want to have to eat anywhere else and were sad that this was the only meal we had at the farm. When we got back to the room, the housekeeper had turned down the beds and taken the mosquito net down to surround them. We slept like queens. I woke up early to go the bathroom and decided to head outside with my light in hopes of seeing a buffalo or elephant. A worker came by - I said Jambo and then asked if he'd seen any animals... after I finally stopped talking he said "no english" which is no problem for me, I'm an expert at charades. So, I pointed to the woods then put my arm up to my face and made my best elephant noise, raising my "trunk" as I did... he started laughing... "elephant!" I guess he knows the names of animals. We stood there for a bit - I'd try to mimic any animal noise I heard and name that animal... he'd correct me. "oohhoohhoohh - monkey?" "hahahaha - bush baby" and so on.
I sprayed down my pants with the toxic "don't get this on your skin" mosquito repellant Heidi brought and then enjoyed the cup of coffee someone brought to our room. Ah, the life of luxury. We didn't have much time to enjoy it, however, as we were off to the Ngororngoro Crater and were already running late. After a delicious breakfast and a quick trip to one of the nicest bathrooms I've ever seen, we were off (but not before taking a few pictures of the flowers along the way).
Click here for Pictures
A tour of our "rooms" at Gibbs Farm
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